help me spend my gun fund!

[Woodsman]

For a two point sling, go with the VTAC MK 2 two point sling. It is padded and comfortable and instantly adjustable. Good kit.

I was thinking more along the lines of a single point.

http://www.vikingtactics.com/prod_sling_VTAC-MK1-a.html

A piston drop in conversion kit from Aeres or Bushmaster might be cool. Those are about 400 bucks.

Great add for a battle rifle, this one is my hunter though.

For a pistol grip upgrade, I would go for the MIAD grip from MAGPUL.

I will take a second look at these/

For adjustable stock, anything from VLTOR or from MAGPUL. A SOPMD stock is nice too, but cost a little much for what it is.

I already have one picked out from CAA - that part is set. I have no experience regarding these stocks, but I plan on adding a 6.5 upper eventually to this rifle and I'll squeeze out every degree of precision that round has (and it's pretty precise), therefore I want a very adjustable unit with a proper cheek saddle on it.

For rail, Daniel Defense 7.0 Omega Rail. Freefloating, 8 0z., and you do not have to remove the Delta ring.

There isn't a delta ring on my AR - currently, there's already a free-float tube on it (the delta ring has been changed out for a different apparatus), but there are no rails on the current forearm - which I would like to change. I don't want to machine this forearm and add rails, and I DO want another forearm - the question is, which one? I still want a free-floater, but yankee hills units are the cheapest I've found - prices range from $140 to about >$1k for these damned things - I am not trying to make a kitchen sink out of this - Just a decent rifle where I can add practical accessories when I need to (no grenade launchers on this one, so no need about bottom rail coming off, etc.) What is the difference in the costs on the rails???

Easy to install and you don't have to alter your weapon, and that is some good stuff. Plus, it has some Quick Detach holes on it. So get some QD hardware for your two point sling, and now you have a detacheable sling system. That is how I rolled in Iraq.

I already have ambi sling/hook attach points on it for a single pointer.

Or spend that money on Ammo. Blackhills blue box, 77 grain all the way. [/quote

Those work best in longer match barrels with slower twists than I have in my rifle - been there done that - excellent rounds, but not in my little current carbine. If I want distance, I'll use the 6.5 for it. Ammo prices are ridiculous now!

Buy a new barrel. Noveski, if you can find a decent price, will do you just fine for the AR. Awesome fucking barrels.

See 6.5 upper above.

Or spend it on training. Paul Howe's CSAT course is cheap, for what you get. Highly recommend that course.

Buy any new mounts you might need from LaRue Tactical. Awesome stuff.

$$$ CHA CHING. ha ha.

Or, save that shit, for a sweet LWRC, HK 416, or the new LMT piston set up(which is the cat's motherfucking meeyoww).

Yep, I agree - but my current rifle is stamped pistol - and registered so I can change it out legally at my convenience in my state of residence - I like conversions, as I find them highly practical.

Buy a case too. Hardig or Pelican all the way. I have the Pelican, and they are pretty nice.

Sure, but I really don't travel internationally with this unit, so the softie I have now is fine.

I would like your (or anyone who is knowledgeable about these) thoughts on the forearms though - because that and the pistol grip is probably going to be the two things I change first on it.

[Jumper]

There isn't a delta ring on my AR - currently, there's already a free-float tube on it (the delta ring has been changed out for a different apparatus), but there are no rails on the current forearm - which I would like to change. I don't want to machine this forearm and add rails, and I DO want another forearm - the question is, which one? I still want a free-floater, but yankee hills units are the cheapest I've found - prices range from $140 to about >$1k for these damned things - I am not trying to make a kitchen sink out of this - Just a decent rifle where I can add practical accessories when I need to (no grenade launchers on this one, so no need about bottom rail coming off, etc.) What is the difference in the costs on the rails???

Well then, the world is your oyster, because it sounds like your rifle has already been modified. For rails, go with either LaRue Tactical or Daniel Defense or PRI. For the foreend grip(if you use one), go with Tango Down. You want a free float rail because it will help in accuracy, and it seems like those three companies make a pretty good product for freefloat. If you do not care about the free float, then you have tons of options depending on what you are willing to spend it on. It seems the Surefire rail is the best for a good all around rail, but you have no Delta ring, so there might be a problem there. The ARMS SIR rails suck, because they are so heavy, and nothing fits on those rails(call a rep and ask him why nothing fits on the rail, and you will get an earfull) Go LaRue Tactical, if you can afford it. Also, because your gun is already set up for a freefloat(no Delta ring), then you are already to go for the free floats out there where you have to remove that Delta ring. You won't be dissapointed, and you will be the envy of all the kids if you go LaRue.

Now if you want to go 6.5, I would just buy a new upper chambered in 6.5. All the companies produce a product like this, for the most part. The best is to try and go with the company that makes your lower, and see if they make a 6.5 upper.

My personal opinion on mix and match 'Franken-AR's' is a no go. I have seen more ARs go down, because some dude mixed and matched parts from all over the place. And if you do make a mix and match set up, I highly advise getting a gun shop to check it over. The stock, pistol grip, and forearm stuff is ok, but once you start messing around with the internals, be careful. Good luck with the build, and post pictures dude. Gun porn!!!! Gun porn!!!! Gun porn!!!!

PS- the only internal thing I have ever done to my AR is put a Defender D rubber gasket on my extractor. It will assist in proper extraction, and is recommend by a ton of guys out there.

http://www.mgimilitary.com/dring.htm

Here is a great little site, dedicated to the 6.5.

http://www.65grendel.com/

[Woodsman]

Well then, the world is your oyster, because it sounds like your rifle has already been modified.

Jumper, I am a shooter. Every gun I own is modified - mostly by my own hands and my own machining skills.

For rails, go with either LaRue Tactical or Daniel Defense or PRI. For the foreend grip(if you use one), go with Tango Down.

So by "rails", you mean a forearm system and by "foreend grip" you mean vertical grip? If that's the case, I think Yankee hills machine offers a free-float quad rail forearm for about $140. The cheapest Daniel defense or LaRue ($$$) or PRI ($$$) is well over $200 last I looked. Why is there such a cost difference? Also, the tango down vertical grip seems very simple to me - maybe it's mechanically solid, but I already have another brand on a different gun and it works very nicely and I suspect the "grip" is better - since there are finger grips in the one I have already. What makes these better than say their less expensive counterparts - what are you paying for?

You want a free float rail because it will help in accuracy,

No, actually it helps in precision - the only thing that will help in accuracy is sight adjustment to point of trajectory.

and it seems like those three companies make a pretty good product for freefloat.

As compared to ???

If you do not care about the free float, then you have tons of options depending on what you are willing to spend it on.

Only free float tubes are an option for my use of the rifle. I would not own a rifle that was not a free-float barrel design unless it was appropriately glass bedded and heavy as a cow, big bore and bolt or falling block action.

It seems the Surefire rail is the best for a good all around rail, but you have no Delta ring, so there might be a problem there.

I have no delta ring as it was removed to install the free-float target forearm that is currently on it now. Again, a non-free-float forearm will not be installed on my AR.

The ARMS SIR rails suck, because they are so heavy, and nothing fits on those rails(call a rep and ask him why nothing fits on the rail, and you will get an earfull) Go LaRue Tactical, if you can afford it.

I can't afford it unless there is a specific advantage over Yankee hill. I mean, look - for my rural use of the rifle I don't need to mount any IR or laser long range sighting units or co-witnessed night vision stuff - all I want to mount to the forearm rails are a vertical grip and a bright, compact regular flashlight to it (which I already have both of), so if I need to use it at night on annoying critters on the back porch, I can flick on the light and shoot. I also find the vertical grip a much more comfortable and natural way to hold the rifle while standing/moving. I can hold the rifle steady easier and longer with that grip - however, the forearm itself has an advantage in some situations obviously, (as does a bipod which I may also use at one time or another), and the vertical grip I have comes off the rail quickly, and locks on sturdy, which I like in case I want to use the forearm only without the vertical grip protruding below.

Also, because your gun is already set up for a freefloat(no Delta ring), then you are already to go for the free floats out there where you have to remove that Delta ring. You won't be dissapointed, and you will be the envy of all the kids if you go LaRue.

Could care less about being envied. This (believe it or not) is a practical rifle. I have a practical budget, too - which is why LaRue seems like very nice quality stuff, but it's pricey - my main question is what makes a simple, free float mounted forearm w/built in picatinny rails more valuable (value I'm talking here - not the cost of the unit) than another?

Now if you want to go 6.5, I would just buy a new upper chambered in 6.5.

That's what I plan on doing. I'll probably go 20" bbl for that unit and also with a quad rail free-float forearm on it.

All the companies produce a product like this, for the most part. The best is to try and go with the company that makes your lower, and see if they make a 6.5 upper.

They don't and it doesn't matter because the manufacturer of my rifle made the lower receiver to mil spec. Therefore another company making an upper receiver to mil spec should fit with a fairly good tolerance.

My personal opinion on mix and match 'Franken-AR's' is a no go. I have seen more ARs go down, because some dude mixed and matched parts from all over the place.

That may be the case, but I stick to quality manufacturers.

And if you do make a mix and match set up, I highly advise getting a gun shop to check it over.

I can do that myself to an extent far surpassing any gun shop around here.

The stock, pistol grip, and forearm stuff is ok, but once you start messing around with the internals, be careful.

Oh, and I am. I've already done the work and with nothing less than excellent results. Simple things like polishing the hammer and sear groups on the AR can really hone precision out of it. No match trigger necessary - match triggers are created right in my work area with 100% reliability.

By design, the AR/M4 is a fantastic firearm to work on. It's really a great system and is FAR more adaptable than most people even fathom.

Good luck with the build, and post pictures dude. Gun porn!!!! Gun porn!!!! Gun porn!!!!

PS- the only internal thing I have ever done to my AR is put a Defender D rubber gasket on my extractor. It will assist in proper extraction, and is recommend by a ton of guys out there.

Interesting. I've never had a failure to extract any ammo - BUT, I'm not even going to claim for a second I've run it through the wringer - because my own personal use for the gun isn't for defense against bad boys in hostile environments - it's primary use is to use shooting targets and taking tasty animals with only a secondary, improbable use as a defense system.

You see, ever since elk hunting 10 years ago with a 24" barreled Browning A-bolt in .300 w/m, sling and scope through the black timber up mountains while having a backpack on, I've learned a few things about practical rifles - foremost that shorter and lighter is better. I wouldn't attempt hunting elk with a .223 - but the Grendel with a 130ish grain Barnes on the end of it will do the trick.

However, I am seriously considering building a 6.5 MPC upper as I think that will be the next production military round - and an excellent game/target round to boot!

http://www.mgimilitary.com/dring.htm

Here is a great little site, dedicated to the 6.5.

http://www.65grendel.com/

Been there, done that. I like Bill Alexander's round.

[coldharvest]

Jumper, are you using any sort of flash suppressor?

[crotalus01]

Fuck LaRue, he talks too much shit, especially when it comes to
AR15.com

[Hitoru]

I've been to his "shop", he hooked us up with free mounts and he is really pretty down to earth in person. You should know the AR15 crowd looks to flame anyone who wont toe their line. His products are top notch.

[Chimborazo]

I've been to his "shop", he hooked us up with free mounts and he is really pretty down to earth in person. You should know the AR15 crowd looks to flame anyone who wont toe their line. His products are top notch.

I stopped going there a while ago. Fucking sheep.

[crotalus01]

Granted, his stuff is quality...basic problem is I hang at SilencerTalk, which is hated by Arfcom for whatever reason. Last time I posted at Arfcom I was summarily banned for I really dont know what...