travel from Azerbaijahn to Dagestan?

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travel from Azerbaijahn to Dagestan?

Postby rutgurt » Fri Sep 28, 2007 4:10 pm

I am going to Baku in a week and I really want to see Dagestan. I am a student majoring in Islamic studies and I am very interested in the Qadiri sufi orders of this region and want to see Dagestan so badly, and I hear its open for tourists, technically. Are there regular trains that go from Baku to Dagestan's capital Makhachkala, or any other easy way of getting to this destination and back, in a timely manner?

Also, what are the requirements to get into Dagestan? Will a regular Russian visa work? what exactly must be done to get me an entree into Dagestan.

Also, how do i get into Chechnya?? I probably wont end up going, but its always kind of a curiosity of mine. I hear flights from Moscow to Chechnya occur now, so I assume its not locked down anymore. If its still going to be impossible for me to get Russian clearance for Chechnya, what is the "unnofficial" expensive entry into Russia?
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Postby lightstalker » Fri Sep 28, 2007 9:40 pm

There are trains that run up the coast from Baku through to Derbent and then onto Makhachkala.The only problem is,the border between Azerbaijan and Dagestan is closed to foreigners.You could try your luck at the border but dont bet on being let in.
The best way to go about it would be to fly in from Moscow or St Pete's on Dagestani airlines,S7 or Aeroflot.Go for Aeroflot because I flew from Moscow to Vladikavkaz with Siberian,on a knackered old Tupelov .We had to turn back the first time because one of the engines died mid flight.My seat was not properly bolted to the fuselage either.
Security at Makhachkala airport will be arse tight so be prepared..Do you speak any Russian?.This is pretty vital.Arrange some accommodation before you go as well so you can show this apon arrival.


Dagestan is still part of the Russian Fed but there are restirctions on where you can go.There is a raft of places in Russia which are off limits to foreigners,not just in the caucasus.
As far as visas are concerned,there is no such thing as a Dagestani or a Chechen visa, because "officially" both republics are still part of the federation.

I hear flights from Moscow to Chechnya occur now, so I assume its not locked down anymore. If its still going to be impossible for me to get Russian clearance for Chechnya, what is the "unnofficial" expensive entry into Russia?


"Grozny Airlines" isnt really an airline.Its a handfull of clapped out Russian Tupelovs.Despite what you may read,the door into Chechnya is firmly shut for now.If you want to go to Chechnya officially,you need FSB permission.
Unless you can hook yourself up with a good fixer,the unofficial expense entry in Chechnya is a shit load of greenback, and your vital organs which will act as insurance cover.

I went to Chechnya last year with an NGO on a business visa.I had to get clearance from the FSB to go to Chechnya and to certain parts of North Ossetia which took quite a while.There are ALOT of checkpoints usually manned by heavily armed federal troops.There is still quite abit of sporadic violence going on in Chechnya and Ingushetia -you just never hear about it.

The best thing to see in Dagestan is the ancient citadel in Derbent ,which is listed as a UNESCO world heritage site.

Enjoy Azerbaijan!.Its a fantastic place.Good luck.
"I just want to conquer people and their souls." ~ Mike Tyson
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Postby rutgurt » Sat Sep 29, 2007 3:15 am

Hhmm, this sounds kind of complicated. Im a student and im kind of on a budget. Having to fly from Azerbaijan to Moscow then to Dagestan seems kind of expensive. I heard theres a pretty little touristy town called Saribash which is right near the border with Dagestan. Hiking through the forest over the mountain into Dagestan with warm clothes and lots of food and water in my backpack a realistic idea or a pipe dream? I assume if I got caught by Russians it wouldn't be too big of a deal as long as I have my Russian visa, right?

Also, no I dont speak any Russian but I am decent at Arabic, and I heard (at least among the practicing Muslims) that knowing Arabic grants a foreigner a lot of respect in the eastern Caucasus. I guess it doesnt help when it comes to talking to Russian authorities.

Also, what is the overall safety in Dagestan? Are there areas i should stay clear of? Would it be considered dangerous to go to some random mountain villages just for exploration? Im very interested in visiting Imam Shamil's (19th century separatist leader) shrine. I heard its in Dagestan but I cant find any info on it, but I know his town is some random isolated mountain village called Gimri. IF u know any details, let me know!

Do tourists actually go to Dagestan??? Will i see tourists at Derbent??? Derbent looks amazing, whats the chances of finding a hostel to stay at in Dagestan or any of these areas? Sorry about all the questions, I just have such a curiosity for this region. Its like a region thats completely isolated both geographically and mentally, since its not even on a map. Its like a hidden gem and I cant help but be fascinated and ask a million questions about this place. Is there a good chance I will be the first American many of these people would ever see in their life?

Finally, what would I have to do to get a Chechen visa if I were to walk into the Russian Embassy here in Cairo? seeing Grozny is of my biggest curiosity. Does it still look like something apocalyptic out of the movie Escape from New York or that last city in Children of Men? Ive seen videos on new tube that make it look fairly clean and trendy, but im assuming thats just the center of downtown.

Also, any recommendations for someone like me wishing to find a job with an NGO group or something that would grant me a job working in Chechnya for an extended period of time? I would love to stay there. My Major is Middle-East Studies and Political Islam, so I dont know exactly where it would take me, but hopefully Chechnya!
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Postby lightstalker » Sat Sep 29, 2007 5:21 pm

Hhmm, this sounds kind of complicated. Im a student and im kind of on a budget. Having to fly from Azerbaijan to Moscow then to Dagestan seems kind of expensive. I heard theres a pretty little touristy town called Saribash which is right near the border with Dagestan. Hiking through the forest over the mountain into Dagestan with warm clothes and lots of food and water in my backpack a realistic idea or a pipe dream? I assume if I got caught by Russians it wouldn't be too big of a deal as long as I have my Russian visa, right?


Im not sure how much you know about this corner of the world but the Chechen Muj' are still operating in the mountains..If you got nabbed by the Russians they would interogate you and no doubt deport you.
If you got accosted by the muj,one of two things would happen: they would either befriend you,seeing as you speak Arabic,or take you hostage for ransom.Franky,its not a very good idea.Dagestan is very dangerous for foreigners,probably more so than Chechnya.You would have to be out of your fuckin mind to even attempt something like that.

Also, no I dont speak any Russian but I am decent at Arabic, and I heard (at least among the practicing Muslims) that knowing Arabic grants a foreigner a lot of respect in the eastern Caucasus. I guess it doesnt help when it comes to talking to Russian authorities.


Speaking Arabic is fine but most people either speak Russian or Chechen.
Having said that there are many many dialects spoken in the region.Particularly in Dagestan ,as you may well know.


Do tourists actually go to Dagestan??? Will i see tourists at Derbent??? Derbent looks amazing, whats the chances of finding a hostel to stay at in Dagestan or any of these areas? Sorry about all the questions, I just have such a curiosity for this region. Its like a region thats completely isolated both geographically and mentally, since its not even on a map. Its like a hidden gem and I cant help but be fascinated and ask a million questions about this place. Is there a good chance I will be the first American many of these people would ever see in their life?


Tourism in Dagestan is non existent.You wont find any western tourists in Dagestan. Generally speaking,the only foreigners who go to Dagestan are diplomats,NGO workers and maybe the odd journalist.

Finally, what would I have to do to get a Chechen visa if I were to walk into the Russian Embassy here in Cairo? seeing Grozny is of my biggest curiosity. Does it still look like something apocalyptic out of the movie Escape from New York or that last city in Children of Men? Ive seen videos on new tube that make it look fairly clean and trendy, but im assuming thats just the center of downtown.


Like I said,there is no such thing as a Chechen visa.
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Postby lightstalker » Sat Sep 29, 2007 5:33 pm

"I just want to conquer people and their souls." ~ Mike Tyson
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Postby lightstalker » Sat Sep 29, 2007 10:10 pm

"I just want to conquer people and their souls." ~ Mike Tyson
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Postby Jas1183 » Mon Oct 01, 2007 11:09 pm

rutgurt, do you go to Rutgers U. by any chance? Feel free to message meif you want to chat as I have been very interested in Dagestan/Caucasus for quite some time now, and would LOVE to go some day.
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dagestan

Postby justintapp » Fri Nov 30, 2007 10:24 am

I used to live in Qusar, which is a rayon on the border with Dagestan primarily inhabited by Lezgis. You can sit on the border and look into Dagestan from across the river, but that's as close as you can get. I can assure you if you try to sneak in through the mountains you will never be allowed entry into Russia or Azerbaijan ever again. Russia has allowed some Americans into Maxachkala and another Dagestani city on student visas--providing they be enrolled in a university there, and go through Moscow. But, that has been a very recent development. I've heard of tourists being given 3-day permission to enter Dagestan from other parts of the North Caucasus, but as the commenters indicated it is very dangerous, basically lawless in parts, you take your own life into your hand.
The closest I ever got was giving a video camera to a local and letting them film their journies in Dagestan.
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